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在日本,菊花象徵著秋天的到來。賞菊文化起源於平安時代宮廷的「重陽菊宴」,人們藉由菊花酒祈求長壽;到了江戶時代,賞菊走入尋常百姓家,也發展出豐富的栽培技法與菊展文化。
這趟香川秋之旅,走進丸龜城時正好趕上了菊花展。其中最令我駐足的,是日本經典的園藝技法「三本仕立て」。這是一株菊開三朵花的極致展現——三根主要花莖呈「前二後一」的三角陣型,每根花莖僅綻放一朵姿態完美的大花。
近距離欣賞,不難發現不論是花朵的高低分明、葉片的伸展角度,還是整體空間的平衡感,都經過精心的微調與呵護。看似俐落簡約,背後全是栽培者傾注的心血與精湛手藝。
以雄偉古樸的丸龜城為背景,漫步在盛開的菊花陣中,秋風拂過,不僅帶來屬於這個季節的雅緻,更讓人深刻體會到日本深厚且優雅的傳統園藝魅力。
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This afternoon, the sunlight is gentle as I stroll along the rice paddies, only to realize that autumn has quietly arrived.
The rice in the fields hangs low with plump ears, a sea of gold undulating in the wind, rustling softly as if whispering the labor and harvest of this season.
The red spider lilies by the field are in full bloom, their vibrant petals curling outward, and the slender stamens resembling flames. It is said that these flowers bloom just in time around the autumn equinox, like a reminder of the season, signaling that harvest time has come.
On the way home, the pomegranate tree in the neighbor's yard is laden with fruit, some already split open, revealing translucent red seeds that look like little gems.
Further ahead, the branches of the olive trees are also heavy with green fruits, some already showing a hint of purple.
These crops and flowers deeply evoke the rhythm of nature. Behind every fruit lies the patience and waiting of time.
Life is similar; as long as you cultivate with care, your own autumn harvest will surely come.
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Today, I visited a vineyard on the mountain to experience grape picking.
This time, I picked "Kagawa University R-1," a grape developed by Kagawa University specifically for winemaking and processing. It is bred from the wild grape "Ryukyu Ganev" found in Okinawa and Amami, combined with the high-quality greenhouse grape "Muscat of Alexandria." Although the grape berries weigh only about 1 gram, their skins are rich in polyphenols and anthocyanins.
I have previously picked grapes at tourist orchards, but this experience was completely different.
In tourist orchards, the grapes hang in clusters on the trellises, making them easy to pick, but the grapes for winemaking grow freely on the trellises, with branches and leaves intertwined, requiring some effort to find the clusters.
The entire vineyard is set on a slope, with drainage ditches below, so one must be careful with their steps while picking, as it is not the easy fruit-picking experience one might imagine.
After washing the picked grapes, they are sent to the factory to be juiced, beginning the journey of winemaking.
The wine made from R-1 grapes is named "Sauvageonne Savoureuse," featuring a rich color and less astringency, and is sold in the prefecture under the Kagawa University brand of wine.
Walking into the vineyard, I realized that behind a bottle of wine, there is not only the mountain scenery but also the culmination of varietal development and the hard work of farmers.
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Located in Sanuki City, Kagawa Prefecture, the "Sanuki Winery" is set in the Oogushi Nature Park area on a hillside, offering views of the Seto Inland Sea and its islands. This place not only produces wine but also serves as a tourist spot to learn about the local grape industry and wine culture of Sanuki.
The winery uses grapes and fruits grown in Kagawa Prefecture to make its wines, including the wine grape "Koda Noh R-1" developed by Kagawa University’s Faculty of Agriculture, showcasing a close relationship with local agriculture. In recent years, they have also introduced wines such as "Sanuki Red, Sanuki White, and Sanuki Rose," offering a range from red and white wines to rosé.
In addition to wine, grape juice is also a highly recommended product. For those who do not drink alcohol, tasting the sweet flavor of the grapes themselves is a great option to bring home as a souvenir.
At the Sanuki Winery, visitors can tour the actual wine production facility. From grape processing and fermentation to bottling, one can gain a close-up understanding of the wine-making process. After the tour, visitors can explore the Bussan Center, where they can purchase wine and grape juice, as well as various local Sanuki products. Current information indicates that the winery's visiting hours are from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, closed on Tuesdays (open on national holidays).
Additionally, the winery offers a "wine soft serve ice cream" that is perfect for hot seasons. The ice cream is made with grape juice as a base and includes a small amount of Sanuki wine, with an alcohol content of less than 0.01%, allowing even non-drinkers to enjoy a grape-flavored dessert with a hint of wine. The rich grape aroma combined with the cool, smooth texture makes it a delightful snack after visiting the winery.
There is also an interesting story connecting Sanuki wine with local industry. In the past, a very niche product called "Sanuki Wine Beef" was introduced, where the grape pomace generated during the wine-making process was mixed into the feed for crossbred cattle. This type of beef is characterized by a higher ratio of red meat, lower fat, and tender texture, and was promoted as a specialty product of Sanuki City. In other words, the leftover grape pomace from wine production was not wasted but returned to the local industry in another form.
From wine and grape juice to grape soft serve ice cream, and even the once-offered Sanuki Wine Beef, one can see how a local winery connects with agriculture, livestock, and tourism. Visiting here is not just about buying a bottle of wine, but also about experiencing the local flavor of Sanuki through factory tours, tasting grape products, and enjoying the scenery of the Seto Inland Sea.
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Opening the book "A History of Cats in Japan," one discovers that the bond between cats and the Japanese people is deeper than one might imagine. Cats have appeared in literature such as "The Tale of Genji" since the Heian Period, even enjoying the favor of emperors.
During the Warring States period, cats also became companions of military leaders. As we entered the Edo Period, cats appeared more frequently in ukiyo-e, literature, and the lives of common people.
Reading through the pages, one can see how cats transitioned from being precious pets to an indispensable part of Japanese culture.
In modern times, this "cat-loving culture" has developed new forms, the most interesting of which is the cat café. Japan's first cat café, "Neko no Jikan," opened in Osaka in 2004 and quickly gained popularity across the country.
For those living in apartments who cannot keep pets, cat cafés provide a space to get close to cats. Sipping coffee while watching cats sleep, stretch, or stroll by creates a leisurely atmosphere that naturally encourages one to slow down.
From ancient courts to Edo-period ukiyo-e, and now to today's cat cafés, the Japanese people's affection for cats spans over a thousand years. Times may change, but the place of cats in people's lives has never disappeared; rather, it continues in different forms to this day. Perhaps, this is what makes Japanese cat culture so enchanting.
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When it comes to "pigs," it's hard not to think of the stereotypes of being gluttonous, loving to roll in the mud, and being dirty and smelly. However, after visiting in person this time, I realized I had completely misunderstood them!
A few days ago, I visited Japan's first mini pig café, "mipig cafe," and as soon as I walked in, my heart melted.
The café follows a "pig first" principle, meaning you can't chase or pick them up; you can only quietly wait for a connection. I watched as the little pigs leisurely strolled around the space, finding their favorite corners to lie down and rest, and it was just too adorable.
Not long after I sat down, one little fellow climbed up onto my lap without hesitation and fell asleep contentedly!
Watching its little belly rise and fall with each breath made me hesitant to breathe too heavily, and I couldn't help but smile. In just an hour of interaction, I felt all the accumulated stress from daily life melt away thanks to these little cuties.
Lastly, a small reminder for friends planning to visit: to protect these adorable little pigs, the café has strict health protocols. If you are a visitor from a country affected by African swine fever, you won't be allowed in for the first two days after arriving in Japan. So, friends who want to have fun with the mini pigs should plan their visit for "after the third day of entry."
Although there's an extra procedure, knowing it's to protect their health gives me peace of mind.
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I heard that teamLab Borderless is a world without boundaries, but it wasn't until I stepped in personally that I truly understood what that meant. Here, it feels as if the entire reality is left behind, leaving only light, colors, and my present self.
The boundaries of this space are blurred; the light flows with my footsteps. There are no rules on how to view the exhibition; all you need to do is walk in, reach out to touch, and quietly feel.
At that moment, the message the exhibition wanted to convey suddenly became clear. It turns out that the observer is not just a bystander; they are part of the art itself, immersed in this world.
Standing alone in a space where blue light flows and flowers rain down, faint sounds echo in my ears. Delicate beams of light cascade down like waterfalls, and soft flowing light spreads at my feet, making me feel as if I reside in a quiet, mysterious forest.
The flowers beside me bloom with the light and wither with the wind, changing in an instant, so beautiful that I dare not blink.
Then I stepped into the pink mirrored space, where twinkling lights refract in countless reflections, creating an illusion of entering a parallel universe filled with stars. Every time I turn around, there's an unexpected surprise.
This is a space that is difficult to define, walking between reality and fantasy. Each step reshapes the artwork and quietly transforms my current state of mind.
As I left the museum and walked home, the flowing lights and floral whispers still flickered in my mind, leaving me wanting more.
I never expected that seemingly cold technology could be so gentle and soulful.
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Visiting Kotohira Town to worship at Kotohiragu Shrine, it is essential to not only challenge the classic 785 stone steps but also to arrange a leisurely afternoon tea break along the way.
About halfway up, around the 500th step, you will find Kamitsubaki Cafe, hidden within the dense forest. This place is a refined space produced by Shiseido Parlour.
As you step inside, large floor-to-ceiling windows offer a breathtaking view of the lush mountain scenery. Sitting by the window, you can enjoy the vibrant greenery while listening to the gentle breeze and birdsong, instantly escaping the daily hustle and bustle.
The seasonal dessert sundae in the cafe is a colorful and visually stunning creation that is hard to resist. The perfect blend of sweet and sour fruits with rich cream instantly soothes tired legs.
Additionally, you can enjoy Shiseido's famous "Beauty Princess" peach rose jelly drink here.
The pink bottle is quite eye-catching, filled with plenty of Nagano Prefecture peach puree and chunks. Each sip brings a rich peach aroma and elegant rose fragrance, infused with collagen and hyaluronic acid, making it both refreshing and nourishing—a dream product for girls.
Kamitsubaki is not just a perfect resting spot during your pilgrimage, but also a healing space embraced by nature.
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As summer arrives in Takamatsu, Kagawa, the most delightful sight is the vibrant sea of sunflowers blooming outside the restaurant window. The vast golden flowers sway in the breeze, and before even starting the meal, my heart is already healed by this summer-exclusive therapy.
Here, they specialize in handmade hamburgers baked in a 300℃ stone oven. Each serving is made fresh upon order, sealing in the juices at high temperatures before being gently reheated. When served, the outer layer has a charming, slightly charred aroma, while the inside remains full and juicy.
This time, I ordered the signature "Tomato Sauce Hamburger Steak," generously accompanied by a soft-boiled egg, seasonal warm vegetables like pumpkin, zucchini, and sweet potato on the hot plate, along with salad, hot soup, and bread, balancing satisfaction and nutritional value.
The rich, sweet-and-sour tomato sauce complements the thick, juicy meat patty perfectly. When I gently cut into the soft-boiled egg, the smooth egg yolk flows down, enveloping the meat patty and adding a layer of warmth and richness to the dish.
Outside, the golden sea of flowers flourishes in the summer heat, while in front of me is the steaming hot plate dish. There are no complicated or extravagant presentations, yet it offers the simplest and most comforting deliciousness.
If you have the chance to visit Kagawa, consider treating yourself to a leisurely lunch, savoring this exclusive taste of happiness in Takamatsu, surrounded by the forest and flower sea.
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Visiting Ichinomiya-ji in Kagawa Prefecture during the summer, aside from the usual pilgrimage, what I look forward to the most is the traditional summer event, the "Cucumber Blessing."
As I step into the quaint temple, the first thing that catches my eye is the neatly arranged boxes of vibrant green cucumbers. Each cucumber is tied with a wish paper bearing the names and ailments of the devotees, creating a scene that is both novel and filled with a sense of sacred ritual. People firmly believe that through the master's spiritual power, they can temporarily entrust their internal pains and misfortunes to the cucumbers.
Standing in front of the master's hall, I watch the devotees earnestly writing their wishes, with the rising incense and the deep, resonant chanting filling the air, even the summer cicadas seem to quiet down in this moment. The serene energy makes one naturally calm, and I silently pray for health and peace for myself and my family with my hands together.
After the ceremony, these cucumbers, which carry the ailments of many, will remain at the temple, where they will be collectively buried in the Cucumber Mound. As the cucumbers naturally decay in the soil, the tormenting pains and misfortunes will also fade away into the earth. This seemingly simple tradition is wrapped in the most sincere and profound hopes of people for their health.
For me, the Cucumber Blessing at Ichinomiya-ji is not just a special travel experience; it is a summer memory intertwined with the warm humanity and ancient beliefs of Shikoku.
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