Today I had the fortune to follow in the footsteps of local elders, experiencing a deep Shikoku ohenro pilgrimage by bus and on foot. We walked along several ancient ohenro paths from No. 86 Shido-ji Temple all the way to the final stop, No. 88 Okoji Temple.

On this journey through time, the elder recounted, as if naming familiar treasures, the origins and stories behind the guideposts and ohenro graves. His vivid explanations seemed to make the long years layered on these old roads reappear before our eyes, turning the pilgrimage into more than just walking.

In the past, when I hiked up the mountain, I used to take the path in front of the Ohenro Koryu Salon. This time, however, the elder first led us onto a little-known ancient trail that runs along the mountainside past the salon. Because few pilgrims use that old path, the ohenro graves along it have been preserved intact, serving as precious witnesses to history.

Next, we turned to another ohenro route that winds by the river near a settlement. This stretch shows the clearest traces of changing times— as the settlement grew and new roads were built, some of the directional stone markers were relocated, leaving their inscriptions pointing inexplicably elsewhere. The elder’s on-site explanations linked all those originally puzzling “misplaced” changes together at once, allowing us to keenly feel both the fascination and the frustrations of history.

Perhaps because of road construction and environmental changes, some of the ohenro graves that once lay scattered along the roadside and slopes were moved and gathered into one place.

This ohenro journey was not only a physical walk but also a deep conversation of the heart with history.