As soon as winter arrives, a box of tangerines always appears in a corner of the living room. That five-kilogram box is usually eaten down to the last fruit by my family in less than a week. Datun Mountain in my hometown of Beitou District produces plenty of ponkan. Though the skin is thicker, the flesh is full and the sweet-tart balance makes them an essential offering during Lunar New Year rites. By contrast, Japanese mikan are small and charming, especially the SS size that you can pop into your mouth whole. I often realize, to my surprise, that I’ve already eaten more than ten. But my favorite is Obara Beniwase from Kagawa Prefecture. Its flavor closely resembles Beitou’s ponkan, with a perfectly balanced sweet and tartness that never grows tiresome. Both the peel and flesh of Obara Beniwase are deeper and redder than those of ordinary tangerines, and it is said to be the most vividly red citrus in Japan. The top grade is called Sanuki Beni, with sweetness over 12.5, followed by the excellent Kintoki Beni, with sweetness above 11.5. Sakaide City in Kagawa Prefecture is the main growing area for Obara Beniwase. Once, when I visited Shiramineji Temple, the 81st site on the Shikoku Pilgrimage, I stopped at an orchard at the foot of the mountain to pick tangerines. Looking at those glossy red-orange fruits in the sunlight awakened my appetite, and I ate several dozen at once, then brought home a large bag to enjoy slowly. Perhaps because of all that, the box of tangerines that inevitably appears in a corner of my home each winter is more than a seasonal symbol; it is a small warmth in my heart that bridges Taiwan and Japan and ties together memories and flavor.